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 The C&O Trail next to the Potomac River The rain was coming down as I rode through the gate marking the beginning of the C&O towpath in downtown Cumberland by the park service visitor center. Cumberland is a CSX town and the train horns could be heard at all hours with trains coming and going. The rail lines paralleled the towpath for about half the day. Even when the trains could not be seen they were present with the low throb of the locomotive diesel engines, the clatter of cars on the rails or the screech of wheels going around bends. Continue reading Day 79: Cumberland to Hancock, MD (November 16)
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 The Eastern Continental Divide Waking up to a hard drizzle or maybe rain, I went to eat breakfast at the Sweetie Bakery next to the pizza place I got dinner with the night before. Buying some donuts and a bagel with cream cheese I checked my email and hoped the rain would stop. The rain eased up and was only something between a mist and a drizzle when I headed back out.
Before Meyersdale, was one of the big things on the trail today: the 1908 foot long Salisbury Viaduct. So not to lose elevation, the railroad made a big bridge to cross over a valley. The bridge is narrow — one track wide — which makes it seem even higher than it is. It looks too be about 100 feet off the ground (but probably only 60 or so) and only about 10 feet wide. Continue reading Day 78: Confluence, PA to Cumberland, MD (November 15)
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 The birthplace of President Abraham Lincoln I woke up this morning thinking I had to get going to cover a lot of ground. But I stopped myself. The birth place of Abraham Lincoln was just minutes away. I could not be this close without visiting. I had read Bill Bryson’s less than enthusiastic description…but he basically hated everything he saw while driving through the USA so I didn’t feel it was a useful guide.
The birthplace park is small. There is a visitor center and a stone, monumental building that houses a log cabin. The cabin is supposed to represent the cabin that Lincoln grew up in. Unfortunately, the monument was closed for repairs, but the visitor center was interesting. The rain started as I got ready to leave the birthplace. The route would take me by the Lincoln homestead and another farm that Lincoln lived on as a child before the family moved to Illinois. The farm was in a little valley that was extremely picturesque. The steep hillsides came down onto a lush green field. If it had not been completely pouring rain I would have stopped for more than a couple minutes. Continue reading Day 72: Hodgenville to Bardstown, KY (November 9)
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 Missouri hills I woke up early this morning to the sound of thunder and rain. It was nice being warm inside my sleeping bag in a dry tent under the picnic building.
I was half hoping the rain would be torrential and I’d have a good reason to take a rest day in Golden City. That could mean three more meals at Cooky’s with more pie, a few naps, and reading. But I ate breakfast and slowly packed up. With everything away except my sleeping pad and tent, the rain stopped at 9:30, and I got going.
Up and down, up and down was the order of the day. The scenery is pretty nice with farm framed by hardwood woods. The trees are turning color. It reminds me a bit of New England. I kept thinking of revolutionary war battle grounds. Although there are not the stone walls like in New England. Continue reading Day 58: Golden City to Walnut Grove, MO (October 26)
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 Skies are still somewhat clear I made it over the Rockies. Just in time. They are forecasting for snow for the next four days or so at the higher elevations.
I started the day about 35 miles from Berthoud pass (11,315′) in Granby. The forecast was for snow and winds 50+ mph starting in the afternoon. I started going at about 07:30. It was windy the whole way to the pass but at mile 20 the wind picked up. I was inching along uphill at about 4 mph in my granny gear into a 20+ mph headwind with gusts that would almost knock me over.
Continue reading Day 38: Granby to Littleton, CO (October 6)
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 I made it! The day started well with waffles at Andy’s apartment and then I futzed about a little and headed out. The rain from the day before created a thick fog in the valley. A few miles out of town the road started to gain elevation that would eventually going over the 9000+ foot Rabbit Ears Pass. The road in the valley was a bit foggy, but I felt OK on it. However when I started to climb the mountain the fog was thicker and the mountain blocked the sun leaving the road dark. Watching cars approach me in my rear view mirror I noticed they started to swerve drastically 200 feet behind me to avoid me. Normally cars would pass in a smooth arc starting far away, but the drastic swerve meant they couldn’t see me until the last minute despite my lights, reflective stripes, and obnoxious clothing.
I pulled off the road and waited. While waiting I contemplated the weather report I had seen in Steamboat. The weekend weather did not look good. I was in a bit of a race against the weather to cross the Rockies and reach the safehaven of my friend’s house in Littleton, CO as well as the lower elevations of the plains. They’d hopefully protect me somewhat from winter which could start at anytime in the mountains. After waiting for about 45 minutes, the sun rose up high enough that its rays went directly into the valleys and started to burn off the fog. In a span of about 10 minutes the road went from completely fogged in to clear, and I headed off again. Continue reading Day 37: Steamboat Springs to Granby, CO (October 5)
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 The front is almost upon me I just spent the last 15 minutes holding my tent in place. A front was moving through and ultralight tents are not designed for winds gusting to 50 mph. So with one hand trying to keep the fly near the ground to reduce the rain blowing under it, I held the poles in place with the other. The tent was still whipping around in every direction. I was glad I went a bit overboard and had put fifteen pounds of rocks on every corner. It is still raining out and a bit of wind. But getting less and I can see the sun to the south where the wind is coming from. I stuffed my gore-Tex jacket and dry bag against the south end of the tent to try to keep out the rain. I seem to remember my brother saying, “If it rains, you’ll get soaked.” Well, not quite but somewhat. I checked the weather report and it said today had a 70% chance of thunder showers but tomorrow should be nice. On the radar image there was a big green blob of rain going right in between Eureka and Ely. Hopefully the sun I see is the bottom edge of it. Continue reading Day 18: Eureka, NV to Illipah Reservoir Campground (September 16)
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